Argentina - Part 1: Patagonia & Tierra del Fuego
A Voyage to the Edge of the World: Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego
Argentina is a country of striking contrasts, from the icy wilderness of Patagonia to the vibrant streets of Buenos Aires and the world-famous vineyards of Mendoza. In this three-part series, I'll take you through my adventure exploring some of the most breathtaking landscapes and dynamic cities this incredible country has to offer.
In Part 1, we'll head to Patagonia & Tierra del Fuego, where vast glaciers, rugged mountains, and the southernmost city in the world, Ushuaia, await. It’s a paradise for nature lovers and adventurers alike.
In Part 2, we’ll explore the lively Buenos Aires. With its rich history, grand architecture, and a deep passion for tango, Buenos Aires is a city that pulses with life. Whether strolling through the streets of Palermo, taking in the elegance of Recoleta, or enjoying a traditional asado, the capital offers an unforgettable mix of culture, art, and flavors.
Finally, in Part 3, we’ll indulge in the wine country of Mendoza, where stunning vineyards nestled against the Andes Mountains produce some of the world’s finest wines. This is the ultimate destination for relaxation and gourmet experiences.
Join me as we explore the magic of Argentina, one incredible region at a time!
Our Two-Week Journey through Argentina
We visited Argentina at the end of April to the beginning of May, during the autumn season. It was an ideal time to explore the country, as we avoided the intense summer heat of Buenos Aires and the freezing winter temperatures in Patagonia. Our trip was split into 5 days in Buenos Aires, 2 days in Patagonia (El Calafate), 2 days in Tierra del Fuego (Ushuaia), and 5 days in Mendoza.
Tips Before You Travel:
Visa: No visa is required for EU citizens for stays up to 90 days. However, if you're transiting through the USA, be aware that a visa may be required for that part of the journey (best to avoid if you can to skip extra paperwork).
Bookings: Make sure to book hotels and domestic flights as early as possible to find good prices! Buenos Aires has two main airports—Ezeiza (EZE) for both international and domestic flights and Aeroparque (AEP) for domestic, so when booking domestic flights, double-check which airport is more convenient for you. Aeroparque (AEP) is about 20 minutes from Buenos Aires city center, while Ezeiza (EZE) is around 1 hour away. We used Aerolíneas Argentinas for all our domestic flights and were very satisfied with both the service and punctuality—although we might have been quite lucky!
Cash vs Cards: Credit and debit cards are widely accepted in Argentina, but having some cash on hand is helpful for street markets and entrance fees to national parks, such as the one in El Calafate with the glaciers. You can exchange a small amount of cash at the airport upon arrival, and in some cases, you can even use US dollars.
Transportation: In Buenos Aires, the fastest and easiest way to get around is by using Uber, which is very affordable (around $2-3 USD for an average 20-30 minute ride in the city center). In the provinces (Mendoza & Patagonia), we rented a car, which I highly recommend. Driving is easy and safe, and the rental cost is quite low (around $30 USD per day).
Patagonia & Tierra del Fuego
Begin your journey in El Calafate, located in the province of Santa Cruz. This region is home to Glaciers National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site covering an impressive 724,000 hectares. Almost 40% of the park is blanketed in ice, feeding the main freshwater basins of the area.
Among its many glaciers, Perito Moreno stands out as one of the few in the world that is not retreating. It spans 195 km²—approximately the size of Buenos Aires—and features towering front walls measuring 5 km in length and between 30 to 60 meters high above lake level. Other notable glaciers worth visiting include Upsala and Spegazzini.
For a taste of rural life, explore the cattle ranches, known as “estancias,” which aim to showcase local customs while providing an escape from the luxuries of urban life. The most famous estancia is Nibepo Aike!
Now, head even further south to Tierra del Fuego, Argentina's only insular province. Its capital, Ushuaia, is situated on the shores of the Beagle Channel, nestled at the base of the Martial Mountains, and is considered the southernmost city in the world. The name "Ushuaia," derived from the Yámana language of the region's indigenous people, translates to “bay that penetrates towards the sunset.”
From 1902 to 1947, Ushuaia housed a notorious prison for dangerous criminals and political prisoners. The Recidivist Jail was constructed by the inmates themselves, who transported materials via a rudimentary rail system. In 1911, this was replaced by the Prisoners’ Train, which traversed 25 km daily, connecting the prison to the nearby forest that supplied its wood. Today, the site is home to the Maritime and Prison Museums.
The “Tren del Fin del Mundo” offers a scenic tour from the outskirts of Ushuaia to a terminal station within Tierra del Fuego National Park. Though somewhat touristy, this train ride provides a fantastic opportunity to explore the national park, especially for those with limited time. Established in 1960, the park spans 63,000 hectares, boasting mountainous terrain, coastal shores, and diverse wildlife.
Ushuaia is a modern city without a distinctive architectural style, but it serves as an excellent base for discovering the national park and the Beagle Channel, as well as being the primary gateway to Antarctica. Don’t miss the chance to take a boat trip on the Beagle Channel to observe sea lions, Magellanic penguins, cormorants, and the iconic Les Eclaireurs Lighthouse.
Best Time to Visit: Spring/Summer (November-March) or Autumn (until early May).
Itinerary
We spent 4 days exploring Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego, with two nights in El Calafate and two in Ushuaia. This was enough time to get a solid introduction to the region and visit its most iconic landmarks. However, if we had more time, we could have easily filled another two days in Patagonia and an additional day in Ushuaia.
Day 1
We arrived in El Calafate early in the afternoon with a direct flight from Buenos Aires and rented a car at the airport, which turned out to be an excellent decision! The roads were easy and safe to navigate, and having a car gave us the flexibility to move around the town and visit the National Park.
We spent the first day strolling around the town – it's a small city that appears to thrive mainly on tourism – and took a walk by Lago Argentino.
Day 2
The next morning, we headed by car to the National Park and the Perito Moreno glacier. The drive to the park entrance took about 40 minutes, followed by another 40-minute drive inside the park to reach the parking area, where you can start walking along the wooden walkways to view the glacier.
The road leading to the park runs along the lake and is mostly a straight, easy drive—even though we had light snow that day! At the entrance of the park, you'll need to pay 12,000 pesos per person in cash for the admission fee. The drive after the entrance takes you through a forest until you reach the parking area, where the walkways begin, offering breathtaking views of Perito Moreno from various angles. You’ll need at least 2 hours to fully explore the paths—there’s no difficulty involved other than a few stairs.
Before you reach the parking area, there's a small road to the right leading to a dock where boat tours depart. These boats take you closer to the glacier, offering a unique perspective from the water. There are usually three tours per day, so it’s possible to combine the boat ride with a visit to the walkways. You can book the boat tour in advance at travel agencies in El Calafate, or, if it’s not high season, you can buy tickets directly at the dock. I would recommend the “Southern Spirit” agency, which operates its own boats and offers the best prices—many other agencies simply resell their tours at a markup.
On the way back to El Calafate, we visited the Glaciarium Museum, which provides a fascinating insight into the history, formation, and ecosystems of glaciers. It's definitely worth spending an hour here to learn more.
If you don’t have a car, you can easily reach the Glaciarium Museum by taking the shuttle bus, which departs from the center of El Calafate. You can find the bus schedule and more details on the museum’s official website.
In just two days, we got a great taste of Patagonia!
If you have more time, consider boat trips from Lago Argentino to see the Upsala and Spegazzini glaciers, or for the more adventurous, there are numerous glacier trekking options. Another interesting trip is to El Chaltén, where you can hike the famous Fitz Roy mountain, known for its stunning landscapes and dramatic peaks.
Unless you're keen on hiking or taking boat tours, I recommend renting a car to explore the glaciers and surrounding areas on your own. Organized tours tend to be quite expensive and less flexible, as you're locked into a fixed schedule.
Day 3
On our third day, we left El Calafate and headed for the southernmost city in the world, Ushuaia. The flight was just an hour long. In Ushuaia, we didn’t rent a car, as we spent the first day exploring the city on foot, and the second day was dedicated to a guided tour of the Tierra del Fuego National Park. However, if you plan to stay longer, I’d recommend renting a car here as well, as there are many interesting spots around the city that you can explore more comfortably with your own vehicle.
We spent the first day walking around the city, which is built along the Beagle Channel and sprawls amphitheatrically along the foothills of the mountains. Ushuaia is a fairly modern city without much architectural charm, with its main life revolving around the central shopping street. At the edge of the city, we visited the Maritime Museum (Museo Maritimo y del Presidio de Ushuaia), housed in the old prison building, where you can learn about the area’s history—though to be honest, it wasn’t particularly impressive. If you’re short on time, I wouldn’t rank it as a must-see attraction.
Day 4
The next day, we had an organized tour of Tierra del Fuego National Park (which included a ride on the End of the World Train) in the morning, and a cruise on the Beagle Channel in the afternoon. We booked our tour through “LM Tour” agency, which partnered with “Canoero Catamarans”, the company operating the Beagle Channel cruises. I’d recommend them for their good service and competitive prices compared to other agencies, as they organized the cruise directly without intermediaries. They were also extremely helpful when we had a ticket issue at the Tren del Fin del Mundo. If you prefer going independently, you can also book tickets online for both the End of the World Train and the Beagle Channel cruise.
Our day started with the scenic train ride into the National Park, which took about an hour and showcased beautiful landscapes. While it’s quite touristy, I’d still recommend it for the views. Afterward, we continued the tour in a minivan, visiting Roca Lake and taking a short walk before heading to Lapataia Bay, where National Road 3 ends—famously considered the "End of the World."
We then returned to Ushuaia’s port to board the boat for our cruise. Since it was autumn, we opted for the shorter cruise (about two hours) to the Lighthouse, where we saw cormorants and sea lions. The penguin island is only accessible in summer, and that cruise lasts around six hours. We were lucky to have sunny weather, making the trip even more enjoyable!
Although our stay in Ushuaia was short, it was packed with incredible experiences and stunning landscapes that left us with unforgettable memories! So, I highly recommend the Beagle Channel boat trip and the visit to the National Park.
If you have the chance, I’d recommend adding one more night to split the National Park and the Beagle Channel cruise into separate days. This would give you the opportunity to fully enjoy the park, perhaps with an outdoor activity like trekking, and also visit the Martial Glacier.
If you rent a car and visit the National Park on your own, just be mindful of the weather, as it can be unpredictable! When we visited in early May, half the park was already covered in snow.
Accommodation
El Calafate: There are plenty of accommodation options in El Calafate, from cozy Airbnbs to full-scale resorts. We stayed at Hotel Posada Los Alamos, which, while a bit dated, was comfortable and enjoyable. The hotel offered a great breakfast with a wide selection and also featured a nice spa with an indoor pool. The biggest plus was the location—just a short walk from the main street, with all the restaurants and shops nearby.
Ushuaia: We opted for an Airbnb since most hotels in the city center felt a bit outdated. If you have a car, I’d recommend staying at one of the resorts on the outskirts of the city—great for a more relaxed and updated experience!
If you have extra time, consider spending a day or two at an estancia for an authentic local experience! There are plenty of options in both regions, though do keep in mind that they can be quite pricey.
Food
El Calafate
Mi Viejo: For a fantastic spot to enjoy meat, try this restaurant—definitely order the asado, and pair it with something from their great wine list, all reasonably priced. Be sure to book in advance!
Nina Pasión y Sabores: Perfect for a quick lunch or dinner, and one of the few restaurants open all day!
Ushuaia
La casa de los mariscos: Incredible seafood in a charming, traditional restaurant! Everything we tried was delicious, especially the king crab dishes—definitely a must-try. Highly recommend!
Kaupé Restaurant: What an incredible experience! This fine-dining restaurant offers a selection of exquisite dishes, with the king crab being a must-try. The staff is exceptionally friendly, making your visit even more enjoyable. Be sure to book in advance!
Don’t miss Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego if you travel to Argentina! They offer a once-in-a-lifetime experience with breathtaking landscapes, stunning nature, and delicious food, all of which make it truly unforgettable.