Wine, History & Nature: Discovering Northern Greece (Part 2)
From the picturesque town of Kastoria to the vineyards of Amyndeon– a journey full of sights and flavors.
Next stop in Northern Greece, after Naoussa and Veria, is Kastoria and Amyntaio – the second most important PDO wine region for the Xinomavro red variety.
Kastoria is a city of unique beauty, rich history, and impressive architecture, built amphitheatrically around the Lake Orestiada. Known for its stunning mansions, long-standing fur-making tradition, and remarkable Byzantine monuments, it serves as the perfect base for exploring the surrounding area. It is easily accessible by car from both Athens (~5 hours) and Thessaloniki (~2 hours).
Amyndeon, on the other hand, is a purely wine-oriented destination—one of the most significant in Greece. Its vineyards stretch across high altitudes, creating a distinctive terroir that gives the wines exceptional freshness and complexity. Xinomavro is expressed with a more aromatic and refined character, while the region is also renowned for producing outstanding sparkling and rosé wines.
Best time to visit: Winter is ideal for ski lovers, as the Vigla-Pisoderi and Vitsi ski resorts are located near Kastoria. However, snowfall can sometimes make transportation challenging. For milder temperatures, spring and autumn are the best seasons to enjoy the region.
Places of interest
Kastoria and its surrounding villages offer unique experiences that blend tradition, nature, and cultural heritage. It's well worth dedicating 3-4 days to fully explore the area!
Old District of Doltso: Doltso is the best-preserved historic district of Kastoria, filled with 17th and 18th century mansions and charming cobblestone alleys. The Kastoria Folklore Museum, housed in the Nerantzis-Aivazis Mansion, offers a glimpse into daily life in past centuries and the city's renowned fur-making tradition.
Lake Orestiada: Lake Orestiada is the jewel of Kastoria, a landmark for both locals and visitors. If you visit the city in autumn or winter, the mist over the lake creates a magical atmosphere! The lakeside road, perfect for walking or cycling, passes by the Dragon's Cave, which is filled with stalactites and stalagmites and features underground lakes. According to the legend, the cave was once filled with gold, guarded by a dragon, hence its name. The tour provides fascinating insights into the cave's geology and mythology.
Prehistoric Settlement of Dispilio: Just a few kilometers from the city, Dispilio hosts one of the most important prehistoric lake settlements in Europe. Archaeological excavations have uncovered artifacts dating back to 5500 BC, proving that the area has been inhabited since the Neolithic era. The site features a reconstruction of the stilt houses, offering a unique opportunity to experience the daily life of the region’s first inhabitants.
Nymfaio: Nymfaio is a beautiful mountain village, with stone houses, cobblestone streets, and a unique atmosphere. It's definitely worth a visit for a stroll, coffee, or lunch! In addition to its architecture, the village is known for the Arcturos Environmental Center, which focuses on bear protection, located just outside the village along a trail. Also, just a few kilometers from Nymfaio, you can visit the Wolf Protection Center. A visit to both places is especially fascinating, as you'll learn about Greece's wildlife, animal rescue efforts, and even get to see the animals up close!
Prespa Lakes: The Prespa Lakes are one of Greece’s most important wetlands, home to unique flora and fauna, making it an ideal destination for nature lovers, photography enthusiasts, and those seeking tranquility in a beautiful landscape. Be sure to visit Agios Germanos, a traditional village with stone houses and an impressive Byzantine church, as well as Agios Achilleios, a small island in the Small Prespa Lake, where the ruins of the 10th century basilica of the same name stand. Crossing the floating pedestrian bridge to reach the island is an experience in itself.
In addition to its natural beauty, the area also offers a gastronomic experience with flavors from both the lake and the land, including salted carp, smoked fish, and the famous Prespa beans.
Winemaking Tradition
The winemaking in Amyndeon is defined by the unique microclimate and terroir of the region, which contribute to the production of wines with exceptional freshness, aromatic intensity, and aging potential.
Located at the highest altitude among all PDO zones in Greece (with vineyards ranging from 550 to 750 meters), the region experiences significant temperature fluctuations between day and night, allowing the grapes to ripen slowly and retain their natural acidity. The four lakes in the area create a cool environment, moderating extreme temperatures and providing ideal conditions for cultivating the red variety Xinomavro, which here develops a more aromatic, refined, and elegant character.
Moreover, Amyndeon is the only PDO zone in Greece that permits the production of sparkling and rosé wines, making the region one of the most interesting and dynamically developing wine tourism destinations in the country.
Wineries
Surrounding Amyndeon, you'll find most of the wineries in the region, ranging from small family-run businesses to some of Greece's most recognized and renowned wineries. Depending on your available time, it's worth dedicating one or two days to visit some of the wineries and sample the different expressions of Xinomavro. For the best service, it’s recommended to contact the wineries in advance for appointments, as most visits are by prior arrangement.
Here is a list of recommended wineries that will offer you a comprehensive insight into the viticultural and winemaking tradition of Amyndeon.
Alpha Estate: One of the most modern and recognized wineries in Greece, with a single, estate-owned vineyard in Amyndeon. Its commitment to sustainability and precision viticulture has led to the production of exceptional wines with structure, complexity, and aging potential. Notable for its expressive Xinomavro labels as well as premium blends, Alpha estate offers a comprehensive and insightful experience. The expertly guided tour, paired with a tasting, is the perfect way to explore the captivating world of Xinomavro.
Domaine Karanika: A boutique winery specializing in the production of sparkling wines using the traditional method. The truly unique creations of Karanika winery – primarily from Xinomavro but also from international varieties – highlight the exceptional potential of the region for producing sparkling wines with elegance, finesse, and refreshing acidity. Don't miss a visit to the winery, as it is one of the few in Greece where you can get a close-up look at the production process of sparkling wines using the traditional method!
Dimopoulos Estate: A family-run winery focusing on low yields and the natural expression of the Amyndeon terroir. Its wines are characterized by elegance, balance, and a strong aromatic profile, with Xinomavro presented in a more refined and sophisticated version.
Ktima Kir-Yianni: The second winery of the historic winery that started in Naoussa, exploring the different expression of Xinomavro in Amyndeon (you can find more information about the Naoussa estate here). The estate in Amyndeon has recently opened its doors to the public, and it is definitely worth a visit! The Xinomavro variety takes on a more aromatic and fresh character, while the winery pioneers in the production of rosé and sparkling wines, showcasing the uniqueness of the region.
Accommodation
We chose to stay just outside the city of Kastoria, at Limneon Resort & Spa, a very nice hotel that combines all the amenities with a lake view. If you don’t mind getting around exclusively by car – even for a stroll in the city center – then this is certainly one of the top accommodation options in the area.
Food
Kastoria and Amyndeon not only stand out for their landscapes and excellent wines but also emerge as a distinctive gastronomic destination. If you visit the region, make sure to try the following restaurants—but be sure to make a reservation in advance, as they are particularly popular!
Thomas (Sklithro): A famous restaurant specializing in local meats. The menu includes excellent stews and grilled dishes, with venison and wild boar being the highlights.
Kontosoros (Xino Nero): A gastronomic destination in itself, this restaurant blends tradition with creative cuisine, offering dishes based on local products, such as unique homemade pies and exceptional meats.
Naoumidis (Agios Panteleimonas): Known for its view of Lake Vegoritida stretching out in front of it, this restaurant is famous for its fresh fish and distinctive flavors that utilize locally grown Florina peppers from the family’s farm.
Kastoria, with its noble atmosphere, captivated me from the very first moment, while in Amyndeon, I had my first encounter with Xinomavro—a variety I consider one of the finest of the Greek vineyard.
Stay tuned, as the exploration of Northern Greece continues!